no 1 and 3 misfire

i've been dealing with this for about 1 month, i've checked everything, from injectors, to plugs to plug wires, map sensor, gaskets, cap and rotor. it runs super rich when it's cold and then levels off when it gets warm. is it possible that the distributor could be going bad? or would that cause all 4 to miss? so what does anyone think about what could be causing my problem.

sounds like a bad rotor cap and distributor cap, it could also be the internals of the dizzy

you need to:
test map sensor voltage
ECT sensor resistance/voltage
IAT sensor resistance/voltage

ok i will check it out thanks for the help

i checked the voltage on the above stated sensors and they all read 5v. so i'm gonna pick up a new rotor and cap and see what happens.

alright swapped out cap and rotor and still the same CEL code. i am at my wits end on this one and have no clue anymore as to what could be causing this. the only place that cyl 1 and cyl 3 have anything in common is at the dist. cap.

Im gonna say try new plug wires they might be faulty and grounding out.

i swapped injectors with ones i knew worked #2 and #4 and then pulled the injector harness off of #1 and there was no change in the way the motor sounded, you can listen to the injector clicking so i know they are pulsing but no difference in idle of engine. where as you pull it off of #3 and the engine sounds different (no fuel) just wondering now if it is possible that i have a dead cylinder? there is spark on all four and fuel on all four but #1 has no change when either plug wire or injector harness is removed, meaning engine doesn't bog like it would if you pulled #2-4 plug wire or inj. harness. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. otherwise i'm looking into a B-swap. just need mounts.

i told you forever ago, id help you put in a B. ill be available in may.

i might be doing a B swap this weekend. it's the last weekend i have available. i'm moving back to ohio to help my family out so i won't be here but another 2 weeks. all i need to do the B swap is the engine mount kit. pat has everything else i need.

bummer

so basically you arent getting fuel at the #1 injector correct? Do you have any engine codes besides a misfire?

pull connector A off the ecu and pull the injector clip off number 1. the #4 pin on connector A should be the pin for the #1 injector. Put the red lead at the #4 pin and touch a body ground. It should show an open loop. try that and report back. You can also check all the 1-4 pins as those should be the injector pins.

pin1 = 4
pin2 = 3

edit:
those are OBDII pins

here is the listing of OBDI pinouts
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm

well i bypassed the brown wire for injector #1 by cutting and splicing my own wire from pin #4 to the #1 injector and it didn't do anything. i can hear the injector clicking but no difference in the sound of the motor like when you pull an injector plug from 2-4. i'm gonna do a compression test today and see what turns up. i hope i don't have a dead cylinder. i used a christmas light as a "noid" light and the plug is working (light flashes on and off) so the spark and injector pulse is there, but no change when either is disconnected, so the only other thing that would be the cause of non-combustion in cylinder #1 would be air, right? or could it be getting air and spark and the fuel rail is plugged up before #1 there by restricting fuel flow through the injector? oh and no other codes besides a misfire on number one now.

so here is what i found out......did a comp test on all four.

#1 - 30 psi
#2 - 120 psi
#3 - 120 psi
#4 - 120 psi

so we did the ol school fix and brought #1 to TDC and fill it with pb blast and let it sit for about 1 hr. blew it out and checked it again..... 60 psi. so it's getting there. so tonight i brought the car home pulled the plug and filled it again and will let it sit for the night and get up early and clean her up and go to work. i've talked to a couple people and they said that it will work. so it's possible that when i put the pistons in that the rings didn't seat properly on #1 and this would be the reason for the misfire. no compression or lack thereof. the car is already starting to run better so i can only have faith that with it sitting over night that it should free up the rings and they should seat properly by the time i get to work. if not i will be re-ringing #1 . so to all who added suggestions i thank you. and to those who didn't i guess you weren't needed.

it's fixed. when i installed the pistons i didnt space the rings right , ring gaps were right over each other. everything is good now. took me 5 hours start to finish. no CEL lights no miss, idles properly. so hooray for me

congrats