Installing Direct Port Nitrous

Ive been running my current NOS wet kit for about a year now and have reached its max abilities at a 100 shot. Weve dynoed and tuned everything we could get outta the wet kit and now its time for more spray. The most effective way to increase the ammount of nitrous one can spray into their motor is through a direct port kit. The direct port kit sprays both fuel and nitrous directly into each intake manifold runner providing maximim HP and effectiveness. Since I already have my current wet kit theres no need to buy another bottle which can be quite costly. The main feed line from the bottle to the solonoids is also something else that can be reused. A tee fitting will be needed at both the current fuel slpitter and the nitrous feed line before the solonoids. Of course a preassembled direct port kit is the way to go, with all the nessesarry fittings and lines included. I personally would prefer to use stainless braided lines from the foggers to the distribution blocks but the cost goes through the roof. Just to buy the 8 braided lines needed to plumb the kit its an extra $240. So im going to try my hand at bending the hard lines that come with the kit. I have a tubing bender that NOS sells just for this purpose, im sure patience will be the key to getting it right and asthetically pleasing.

I started by removing my aftermarket Blox (skunk knockoff) intake mainfold. If you cant do this step without a how to tutorial you probably have no business installing a direct port kit. Once the intake manifold is off the car its a good idea to tape ove the runnerd in the head to keep and debris or small critters out of your engine.

Once the intake mani is off the engine its time to start mocking up where you want everything to go. Like where the foggers will sit with no clearance issues from the fuel rail or misc sensors. In my case I had to relocate the intake air temp sensor to the back of the manifold by drilling three holes and remounting it. Then since I wanted all the lines on top of the mani instead of under it I also had to ensure that the fuel rail would come off and on without contacting the foggers or lines. Once I determined where I wanted the foggers to sit I discovered a few slight clearance issues. After a few slight modifications to the manifold I was back in business.

Some people opt to put all the foggers and lined under the manifold to keep the engine bay cleaner looking but it makes servicing the system a major pain. Also the jets would be under the mani making them very hard to change on the fly. With all the plumbing on top of the mani I make all the changes I want quickly and easily.

Next I measured the postions for the foggers and marked them with a sharpie. I predrilled a divit into the marked spot with a small bit and then proceded to drill the hole just a slight bit smaller than the foggers threads so tomorrow I can tap the soft aluminum to match the foggers threads. (I gotta go buy a tap tomorrow) With the foggers sitting at just the right angle it was time to figure out where I want the distribution blocks. For my needs im going to have them hover right over the top of the intake manifold. This will get the hard lines as short as possible and ill have to make the least ammount of bends.

Heres a shot of the foggers in place and the distribution blocks in their general area.



And another shot with the fuel rail in place. You can see the tight fit now.

bump for input

looks good so far man, any finished pics tho?

u must have had some small solenoids in ur kit... my nitrous express kit was good up to a 250 shot, and its 4 years old.

I just started the install last night so its not even close to finished. If I didnt care about doing the cleanest best possible install it would be done already. Just for some background it took me three days to get my regular wet kit installed the way I wanted it. Clean and simple. Now this kit is way more complex and i want it right. So tomorrow im going to go see my buddy that is an insane welder and get his input on the best way to seat the foggers in.

Ive also gotta build a new bracket to hold both the fuel solonoids on the firewall next to the fuel filter. Im probably gonna replace all the solonoids with cold fusion solonoids since they look sooo much better than the old NOS solonoids which dull and tarnish no matter what you do to them. Also the cold fusion solonoids are every bit as dependable as the NOS ones.
Ill update more later

looks good

very nice disco. can't wait to ride in it finally.

That is pretty rad.

slow.

Alright heres a quick update.

In typical "Disco" fasion this small job just turned large. With all the projects I undertake with my Integra there are allways a couple little thing that need to be adressed either for function or form. While setting up my direct port kit to go in I have seen a few little thing that need to be changed out to make the engine bay both less cluttered and more convient.

Example. The huge bulky fuel filter in in the perfect place for me to mount my fuel solonoids to get them out from behind the intake mani where alot of heat builds up. Heat near fuel solonoids = bad day. Soooooo what the solution????? Buy an in line fuel filter just like the kind that you can buy for your nitrous kit right? Yes. But if im gonna do that then I may as well change all the lines out to braided stainless and put the nessesary fittings in place to accept my fuel pressure gauge and three more outputs. One for the fuel rail and two more for fuel solonoids.

So now ive got to make a new brackett to mount the solonoids and the new fuel filter to in the place of the current fuel filter position and buy a whole crap load of expensive braided lines and fittings At least ill know I did it a right as I could when its done.

Damn, thats looking good, wish I was home to help ya with it,
setting them up is cake work. Let me know if you need anything bud.
One question, can you still utilize the intake sensor thats next to #3 jet?
Or can you just put a block off plate there.

I just relocated it to the underside of the plenum Im crafty like that. Now I gotta grind it down and thread a plug into it.

Disco wrote:

I just relocated it to the underside of the plenum Im crafty like that. Now I gotta grind it down and thread a plug into it.

Good deal
You will probably need that port welded shut, but I would just put a block off plate and round seal

Alright heres another little update.'

I mocked up the bends tonight with some rubber coated white hangars so I could make all the bends without ruining the tubing the kit came with. Now that the bends are made with hangars I can copy them with the tubing. Heres the best set up I could create and keep all the bends mellow. The lines arent exactly like they will be when its done there are a couple bends that need minor adjustments.

CLEAN MANG CLEAN

discos work is clean.

Ok so we had the mini meet today at my house and I got no work at all done to MY car so after everyone left I got busy preping my intake mani for the direct port kit.

Heres the air intake temp sensor in its normal postion. It needed to be moved so I could thread the fogger in place.


so I made a block off plate and set the little o ring under it.


and here it is relocated to the back


Ok and the fast Idle thermo hasnt been in use for a long time but all I did was block it off with a soda can and bolt the FIT back on. It allways bothered me due to the fact that it doesnt do anything and just hangs there.


So heres the block off plate

I put out a distress call when I found out how hard it is to find a 1/16 NPT tap around here. Well tonight a member came through for me and I got the manifold tapped and the foggers threaded in. YAY Thanks alot 4drgsr aka Brian MCay. He works at the track and knows all the big drivers and builders personally. So he asked around and after driving all over the north end of the county he finnally tracked one down. Thats what this site is all about, helping out. For a while there he thought I had sent him on a snipe hunt, we werent sure it even existed. Here it is.



I got the manifold tapped in about 5 minuets. He took the tap back and its all ready to be plumbed. Ill get that all done soon enough.

who was the guy that tapped your mani holes

ME

Another update.

I went ahead and bent all the lines for the kit today. It was a bit scary trying to get them all to go where they need to go and make them all look the same and look good. So I started by making a jig instead of doing it by hand like I did the hangars for my mock up. The stainless tubes would have been really tough to bend without the use of a jig. So heres my jig using the parts from the bender and my trusty workbench.


heres a couple shots of it in the car.



I wasnt satisfied with the two back lines so I ordered two new ones. Ill have them in a couple days and finish this whole thing up.

i like this kit alot. your doing a great job so far. let me know how you like it when you get it spraying.

hahahahahah Pose asked who tapped your holes hahahhahahahahha nice

looks good Disco

NICE INSTALL DAVE!!! looks really clean man. quick question though, how come you didn't mount them on the bottom side of the manifold? it would have allowed you to mount the nozzles with a straight shot into the center of the runner instead of at angle. it could possibly cause a puddling effect on the top of the runners since it'll be spraying in that direction, but then again might not at all. not trying to scare ya, probably won't matter, just pointing that out.

i'll get up with you this week about doing the fuel lines. tomorrow night work for ya?

Did you ever figure out whether you were gonna run the fogger too? I know there for a while you said you were, Just didnt know if you were or not now....

I angled all the foggers straight into the port so there not sitting straight up. I did tons of research on the DP kits before I even purchaced it. The reason I didnt want to plumb it from the underside like this


But I am more into the practical application and having the ability to maintain the system. If you plumb it underneath it is a "cleaner looking" install but id rather be able to fix leaks and what not on the fly without having to jack up the car and get underneath. Plus I believe that a well put together DP kit can be a thing of beauty.